MA U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity – Overall reflections for ‘banana’ and ‘egg’

This blog details my overall reflections for the Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity. I made two paintings on this topic and they are captured in the two blogs below:

https://eliza-rawlings.com/2024/08/08/ma-y2-u2-cheongsam-series-food-as-metaphors-for-cultural-identity-youre-a-banana/

https://eliza-rawlings.com/2024/08/08/ma-u2-cheongsam-series-food-as-metaphors-for-cultural-identity-no-im-an-egg/

The finished paintings are intended to be displayed as a pair because they respond to each other.

REFLECTIONS

It has taken me some time to write this blog as I am not sure where to start. My reflections on the making process, composition and technical learning are captured within the individual painting blogs. This blog is meant for reflecting more deeply on what making these paintings has meant for me. I shall capture my thoughts as they come into my mind as a form of free writing.

The dressmaking part:

– Throughout the making of the Cheongsam dresses, I thought a lot about watching my mother dressmaking when I was a child. The way she designed the clothes, for herself and for her children; measuring us, making her patterns on waxy paper, chalking the cloth aided by her special yellow wooden rulers and cutting the fabric with the long sharp scissors. Then sewing using her manual Singer sewing machine with a leather belt that turned the wheel as she pedalled. I remember having fitting sessions with part-finished garments and then she would do the final finishing off. Every button was chosen with care. It’s not until I made these canvas dresses for my paintings that I realised how very clever she was. Although dressmaking is not difficult, making it well requires talents and skills just like any craft. She made evening gowns, tailored jackets and trousers! Those are very difficult items!

– One could ask, so what? Many people made and still make clothes. What’s the big deal? I reflected much about her life while making my canvas dresses because the process of dressmaking is largely unchanged therefore I could clearly visualise my mother going through all the steps that I am now replicating decades later. My mother married at 17 years old and became a mother at 19. Hong Kong in the 1950s and 60s was a very patriarchal society and she as a Chinese woman was confined to her role – wife, mother, cook, cleaner, homemaker etc.. However, it is clear on reflection that she had ambitions that were not fulfilled by her role ‘assigned’ by society. There were few avenues for a woman of her time to express herself and she chose to do it through her dressmaking. She later went onto Chinese painting and became an accomplished artist with many students. Two weeks ago I was shown the various awards that she was given as an artist by cultural institutions in Hong Kong and China – I hope to explore more about her journey as a painter at a later stage.

– As my father’s career advanced in the Colonial Hong Kong Government, my mother would accompany him to official white-tie dinner balls (British style). She would always design and make her own evening dresses. She was the only woman who made her own dresses at those events. She always sought to be different and I believe in those days, her dress design and making was where she found a channel of expression as well as solace. It gave her an escape from the shackles of societal expectations of a traditional Chinese woman.

– I left home when I was a young teenager to boarding school in England and never lived with my parents since. Sadly they both passed before I really had the time or inclination to get to know them properly. So in a way I’m reflecting on her as a stranger with fragmented information from my patchy memory. Despite that, how did I end up picking up art in later life and in a strange way walking her path? I don’t think I have the answers yet but my own artistic journey has given me insight into what she was seeking as a person, as herself.

The painting part:

– It took me a while to decide what to paint. I like using metaphors in my work and when I stumbled across an image of Warhol’s banana, it gave me the idea to paint something in pop art theme as a contrast to the traditional Chinese dress canvas – I like making work that has an undertone of incongruity because that is afterall the metaphor for myself. Furthermore, a banana was the perfect subject as a cultural metaphor – yellow on the outside and white on the inside.

– I researched the use of the word ‘banana’ to describe a westernised East Asian person and I was delighted to find many insightful and humourous articles that resonated with me. The highlight was finding the film clip from the Hollywood movie Crazy Rich Asians talking about the protagonist being a banana – it was for me an endorsement of the phrase and bringing it into contemporary popular culture.

– As I got older and started to take time to look into my heritage, I felt that ‘banana’ alone was an insufficient metaphor for me. Growing up as a child in Hong Kong, a British influenced Chinese society, it was (and still is) so culturally rich that my core is deeply rooted in that heritage. Hence when I read an article about an egg with the yellow core as a cultural metaphor, I was hooked by the idea and felt it was a good response to the ‘banana’ metaphor.

– As I was painting both dresses, I was keen to adhere to the pop art theme painted on the Chinese dress canvas to capture the incongruity, or perhaps the fusion of the different cultures that I seek to represent in my work. At the end, I felt I have largely achieved what I intended despite much time spent on getting the right ‘green’ for the banana dress.

– The most poignant moment came when I was mixing and remixing to search for the correct shade of yellow and white colours to use for the eggs and bananas. I kept asking myself – ‘Is the white ‘white’ enough?’ or ‘Is the yellow too ‘yellow’?’ The constant search for the right shade of colour to use was a good metaphor for my attempt to fit in especially in my early years as a youngster in a new culture. Like many young people in a new environment, one was always working out how to behave, how to dress, how to do the makeup, what jewellery to wear etc. in order to fit in and be an insider. Or not to be treated as an outsider. It was a mutation process over time.

– The making of the two paintings here has turned out to be a better metaphor for my cultural transmutation journey than I ever expected.

LEARNING

I believe this blog concludes the ‘Cheongsam – food as metaphor’ series of work. I want to continue to make more Cheongsam paintings including looking for a more efficient way to make the dress canvas – it is time consuming but I want to continue with the idea so I need to find better ways of making the canvas.

I will continue to use the Cheongsam canvases to explore my identity which is a fundamental part of my practice. I feel using a Cheongsam canvas is a turning point in my practice, the idea came to me just as I was struggling to find a way forward to bring my ideas together. These two paintings are just the beginning of something, not sure exactly what yet, but I feel it’s a beginning.

Since much effort goes into making these canvases, I want to revisit the first Cheongsam painting that I made with the ‘Blue Willow pattern’ to see if I could make more of it so as not to waste the piece because I was not that satisfied with the outcome at the time.

NEXT STEPS

Revisit the Blue Willow pattern painting dress to give it more meaning.

Explore more efficient ways to make the Cheongsam dress canvas.

Make more work!

MA U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity – ‘You’re a banana!’

This is the second painting of the Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity. The blog below is the introduction to the series with background information on my thoughts on this topic as well as some research.

MA Y2 U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphors for cultural identity – Introduction

The blog below is for the painting that responds to this one, called ‘No, I’m an egg.’. I was meant to do the ‘banana’ painting first but due to shortage of green paint at the time, the second ‘egg’ painting was completed first.

MA Y2 U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphors for cultural identity – ‘No, I’m an egg.’

METHOD

Since I am not an experienced dressmaker, I am rather slow in making the dress canvases. I constantly look for ways to be more efficient in the dressmaking process, so the canvas materials for this dress was cut at the same time as the ‘egg’ painting canvas by doubling up the calico material to save time.

Here is the completed dress canvas ready for the banana painting:

Different banana images were considered for the design. I wanted a ‘closed’ banana and a half peeled banana.

Clear gesso and fluorescent green acrylic paint were used to prime the canvas and for the background:

Banana shapes were marked onto the canvas using white chalk to map out the overall composition before painting.

Then initial blocking out of the banana images were made:

I was not satisfied with the Daler Rowney System 3 acrylic fluorescent green colour – it was too dark and dull, I wanted a neon-look. So I bought some brighter paint by Pebeo.

The Pebeo paint looked brighter which was better.

The Pebeo paint dried slightly darker but still brighter than the Daley Rowney System 3 paint.

Since the Daley Rowney System 3 acrylic paint is a student grade paint, the pigment density was not great. I had to paint three coats to get a good coverage. Then I changed to the Pebeo paint and a further two coats were added. In total, there was five coats of acrylic paint which made the canvas stiffer than the ‘egg’ dress. This made sewing on the ‘frogs’ (Chinese style fasteners) much harder. See below for the not-so-tidy sewing where I had to just push the needle through wherever I could due to the thick canvas by that stage.

Finished work – ‘You’re a banana!’. Acrylic on handmade Cheongsam dress canvas. L105 x W76 x D30cm.

REFLECTIONS

The making of this painting did not go as well as the ‘egg’ painting because of the additional coats of green background colour required making the process more extensive than before. Nonetheless, I am satisfied with the outcome and the way the two dresses respond to each other. I will capture my reflections in full for both dresses in this blog:

MA U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity – Overall reflections for ‘banana’ and ‘egg’

LEARNING

There are several learning areas from this painting…

1. The Velcro ‘zip’

The learning from the ‘egg’ painting on the making of the Velcro ‘zip’ was very important and I am pleased that it worked out well for this painting.

Reminder of the problem on the ‘egg’ dress with the Velcro seam being visible from the front, not ideal aesthetically:

Taking the learning from the above has helped me to improve the Velcro seam for this painting:

2. Paint materials

Much time was spent on the many (five) coats of paint required for the background green colour. This was frustrating at times, but it was good learning. I should do more research into the colour and materials before embarking on a large painting. I knew student-grade paint typically has less dense pigment load and I should have been more prepared with this knowledge. The pink background of the ‘egg’ painting was ‘abstract innovative acrylic’ by Sennelier. It was relatively inexpensive with higher pigment load than the Daley Rowney System 3 acrylic. I was very pleased with the Sennelier acrylic and will bear this in mind in future paint materials selection.

3. Time saving methods

Doubling up the calico materials and therefore cutting two dresses together saved time. I will continue to look out for ways to be more efficient in making the dress canvas. I want to continue to make the dress canvases going forward because I enjoy the making process and it is good opportunity to think. However, I don’t want to spend excessive time on that part of the process because I knew I would become impatient and would want to get on with the painting.

4. More research up front

I could spend more time up front to test out materials, colour and composition (e.g. in my sketchbook) before proceeding onto the canvas. I think this will be useful and become more necessary going forward as I expect the next series of paintings to be more complex, both in idea and composition.

NEXT STEPS

After making these two paintings, it is a good point to pause and reflect properly on this series of work. I will capture my overall reflections in a separate blog. After that, I will go onto make more Cheongsam paintings because I am still excited and enthusiastic about this method of art making. I hope to crystalise my thoughts about the topic for the next painting while reflecting on this series.

MA U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity – ‘No, I’m an egg.’

After accidentally finding my late mother’s silk Cheongsam (traditional Chinese dress) in my loft, I have been exploring making my own 3D canvas in the shape of the iconic Cheongsam for painting. My reason for wanting to make such a canvas is captured in this blog:

MA Y1 U2: Cheongsam Series #2 – study drawing

Below are two blogs on the first experimental 3D canvas painting that I made as a start to the Cheongsam series of work. I have gained much invaluable learning through making this first dress because I am completely new to dressmaking:

MA Y1 U2: Cheongsam Series #3 – wearable painting

MA Y1 U2: Cheongsam Series #4 – Appropriation. Appropriation.

Then I started to think of subjects for my next paintings. I thought of doing something about my identity which is a foundation topic of my art practice. I explored using food as metaphors for cultural identity and started with a digital sketch of pop art ‘banana’ theme. The blog below explains what ‘banana’ means in this context with more background information:

MA Y1 U2: Cheongsam Series #5 – She’s a banana! – Part A

Then I decided to capture more about my thoughts on the subject with additional research findings. Hence I created a blog as an introduction to the Cheongsam Series – Food as cultural identity metaphors. This blog includes an extract from the film ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ where the meaning of ‘banana’ was explained as ‘yellow on the outside, white on the inside’ – a metaphor for a ‘Westernised’ East Asian person.

MA Y1 U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphors for cultural identity – Introduction

Within the above introduction, I also talked about my personal response to ‘You’re a banana!’… my response would be ‘No, I am an egg.’ The two food metaphors were chosen as subjects of this Cheongsam series.

I wanted to make the ‘banana’ painting first, but I found that I didn’t have enough paint in stock for the chosen green background colour that I wanted to use. So while I ordered more green paint, I proceeded to create the ‘egg’ dress first.

METHOD

I made the canvas Cheongsam dress using the same dressmaking pattern that I had used before. Like the last dress I made, the material used here was also calico.

Learning from the first dress that I made, the pattern was a very loose fitting dress therefore darts are definitely required on the front and back of the dress:

The first dress that I made was hand sewn because my old sewing machine gave up on me. I bought a new sewing machine for this dress and I chose a heavy duty one since I was planning to sew thicker canvas materials going forward.

Below is the completed dress canvas in calico:

I chose to use fluorescent or neon colours with a pop art theme for this Cheongsam series because I wanted them to be fun. These food metaphors are often used in a light-hearted way from one East Asian person to another, hence I don’t want these paintings to be too serious. I decided to use fluorescent pink for the background for the ‘egg’ dress as a response to the fluorescent green that I had planned for the ‘banana’ dress. Pink was meant to be a fun response and I felt it would help the eggs to stand out in the design. The medium below was used to prime the canvas:

Below are the front and back of the pink dress canvas:

A variety of egg images were considered for the design:

The shortlisted eggs were marked onto the pink canvas with white chalk prior to painting:

Below are images of the finished painting:

The painting is wearable:

Finish work: ‘No, I’m an egg.’ Acrylic on handmade Cheongsam dress canvas. L105 x W76 x D30cm.

REFLECTIONS

I am pleased with the outcome of this painting. I feel the colours and composition worked out well with the eggs. I am also pleased that the canvas is wearable. Although I had not intended for it to be a piece of garment, being wearable will give more options of how to present such a piece of work. I enjoyed the making process, too. I will capture my full reflections for both the egg and banana dresses together at the end of the series in this blog:

MA U2: Cheongsam Series – Food as metaphor for cultural identity – Overall reflections for ‘banana’ and ‘egg’

LEARNING

Since dressmaking is so new to me, there were lots of good learning from a technical making perspective:

For this design, making the darts from the start (before painting) worked better so should bear this in mind. Get the dress to fit (if intending to wear) as well as possible before painting is key. Once the paint is applied, the sewing becomes harder and manipulating the canvas would risk creasing the paint.

The most important learning was the fitting of the ‘zip’. Instead of using a conventional zip, I used a strip of Velcro because that was easier. Since these dresses are not really garments for everyday wearing, I believe Velcro is sufficient and a good alternative. However, I learnt from this dress that how the Velcro is placed can make a big difference aesthetically. The two Velcro pieces have to be placed on the interfacing of the opening in a way that minimises its visibility from the front view. I hadn’t appreciated this because I accidentally did it correctly in the previous ‘blue willow’ dress, but I did it incorrectly here.

Incorrect way meaning the Velcro is visible from the front:

Correct way below – the Velcro is not visible from the front. I must remember that the edge of the seam for the zip-opening on the back piece should be left free, i.e. ‘not sewn down’; whereas the corresponding edge for the front panel should be sewn down so that the Velcro seam is rear facing when in place.

NEXT STEPS

Make the banana dress!